Fabric



H. BARBET FABRIC April 16, 1935.

2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 22, 1933 H. BARBET April 16, 1935.

FABRIC Filed April 22,

1953, 2 sheets-sheet 2 INVENTOR f/g/ve/ 502557.

ATTORNEY v Patented Apr. 16, 1935 EABRIG:

Henri Barbet, 'Scarsdale', N. Y., assignor to Albert Godde, Berlin, me,NewY'ork, N. Y.,' acorporation of New York Application Apr-H122,1933,.Serialfio, comm. -(01. 139 -3 4 The present invention relates toanew and improved fabric and it particularly relates to afabric with apleated or tucked effect formed simultaneously with the fabric asan'i'ntegral part thereof.

. 5 In the past, when forming pl'eated or tucked effects, the fabric wasfirst woven onformed in flat" condition and then by a subsequent sewingoperationby-hand or with a special machine, the tucks'or pleats wereformed. Tucks or pleats formedjby these additional operations byfolding. or' gathering up of" the woven or other fabric usually are n'otregular, are at unequal distances, do not closely conform to thestraight of the material, and do not lay satisfactorily, but tend togivean undulatory appearance, necessitating pressing and otherflattening operations so that the fabric will have a satisfactoryappearance; Moreover, the fabric or garment made of it, tends to become:ruffled and mussed easily and it-mustbe frequently pressed and againfinished.

' Even when the fabrics are most carefully v pressed and finished; theytend to' bulge: or undulate even after slight usage, The thread or'extrabinding which must be utilized to give the tucked or pleated effect.detracts from the artistic aptpearance of the fabric, and, moreover,tends to give it a seamed efiect.

r The object. of this invention is to provide a fabric and process formaking the same, in which the pleat or tuck is formed. integrally withthe fabricv itself, preferably during, the weaving operation whichfabric will have a superior pleated or tucked effect, will be moredressy in appear'- ance and will not tend to readily crumple or fall outof shape during usage, p v Y Another object is to provide a pleated ortucked.

, fabric of altogether new'appearance which will be subjected toanylongitudinal stretch. To: overcome this, attempts were made.- to providedouble.

,; fabrics or rnulthale ply fabrics, one of which fabrics would not bepl'eated'but would. act" as av sort of a reinforcement to hold the pleattogether; The utilization of multiple ply fabrics of this characternotonly resulted in an unsatisfactory appearance, butin addition wouldnot satisfac torilyprevent the drawing or pulling out of the pleats ortucks. I

A feature in the present invention resides in the construction of apleat or tuck woven integrally into the fabric in such a manner that thepleat wi1- l;retainits shape and will not. tend, to separate. -Althoughthe weave may be constructed; in. many" different fashions. in combina--tion with' the: pleat: it has been. found particularly. satisfactory inassuringpermanency of the-pleat in causingclosing: off the pleatadiacent its base" toprovide three: Gros; do: bindings or" double.groups or pairs. of. filler er -pick 7 threads enclosed formed; by thethreada.

this, way, assurance is had that the.- pleatg-wi-ll closeat its; baseand will not, haven-tendency to; openduring; and after the-wearingprocess.

Although the objects of the; present invention may; be attained. in.various wa S,,,0ne method which has been found satisfactow is to providetwo warpsto be incorporatedin the single pleated or. tucked fabric, one,warp alone. being utilized when the pleats or tucks are being formed.and; both warpstogetherbeing combined when the base or. backgroundisbeing. formed fiormingthe fabric-in this fashion; the pleat elementswill have a. lesser density in warp threads than willv the fabricintervening between the. pleats or the back round; as it may betermed,whilethebasebetween the. pleatsfor their termi nal edges will be-ioinedtogether by the remainder of thawarp; threads, reinforced pleated ortucked construction: oii greatly improved: charer'a fien o edr r ns .oii s-.-t

The above and other objects will appear more. clearly from; thefollowing detailed description, when taken connection with theaccompany-'ingdrawings,, which illustrate'one, embodiment of the h ventive idear jh esr. v. I Fig. 1 .i-s a diagrammatic bottom view of a-fraga mentaryportion of.- the.new fabric-according to l the present invention Fig.v 2is, a diagrannnaticside sectional view of the-fragmentary portion of thefabricil-lustrating, the construction thereon 3 is-a diagrammaticsideview illustrating the weaving operation when-the pleat is beingformedjand 1 g V Fig, 4 is a; diagrammatic viewillustrating the weavingoperation when; the-background or base between the pleats is beingformed. l i

As illustrated m gs. 3 and 4.3 the completed fabric in with the pleatsor tucks H integrally woven thereinto is wounduponthe chum l2. The

shuttle (notshown) earrying the. picks, end, filler" As diagrammaticallyillustrated, the heddles I6 carry the base or background warp while theheddles I! carry the pleating warp. A large number of these heddles,of-course, will'be utilized, corresponding to the entire width of thewarp.

As illustrated, in Fig. 3, when the pleat is being so that the shuttle(not shown) will carry the woof or pick thread only through the pleatingwarp I8. The background warp I9 maybe positioned below the pleating warpI8 during weaving, or it may otherwise be removed-from the weavingsiredintervals so that the pleat will be woven for a desirable number ofpicks. By these attachments, it ispbssible'to regulate the width anddepthof the pleat. After such release, the two warps may be caused towork together 'to form the ground betweenthe spaced pleats or tucks. Asimilar effect may also be obtained by releasing the front roller afterthe weaving of the pleat. Y s

It is, of course, to be understood that difierent types of threads maybe utilized for the pleating warp I 8 and for the background warp I9 andalso for the pleating pick threads and for the back:-

ground pick threads 26, (Fig. 2). i

It is evident, therefore, that the mostnovel and pleated effects may beobtained, in which,

although the pleat is a'unitary part of the fabric, it has a novel anddistinctive appearance and has a distinct decorative effect, as appliedto the fabric, in addition to the usual pleated and tucked appearance. iI

The fabric as formed is best shown upon Figs. 1 and 2. In Figs. 1 and '2the pleating warp threads I8 and the ground warp threads I9 are shownwoven together to form the ground portions I0 and the pleats II. Thepickthreads for the pleat are indicated at 25, while the pick threadsfor the ground are indicated at 26.

It will be noted in Fig. 2 that the ground warp threads 19 extend acrossthe base of the pleat I I and reinforce the same, while the pleatforming warp threads I8 extend around the pleat II, as a result of whichgreater length of the pleating warp is utilized than of the ground warp.The pick threads 25 in the pleat II may be of the same construction asthe pick threads 26 in the ground, ordifferent types of threads may beutilized. 1 y

The pleats formed are regular, are of equal space and are rigorouslyheld upon the straight of the material. The necessity forextra pleatingor tucking operations either by hand or by a special machine arealtogether eliminated. A seaming or sewing thread appearance isaltogether absent and a very even crosswise pleated effect is attained.The fabric will lay fiat and will not undulate or become misshapen likea material pleated after weaving.

Moreover, the pleat will be closed at its base and will not have atendency to open during and after the weaving process. The weavingincluding utilization of three Gros de Tours bindings will preventshifting of the ground in respect to theweave. formed the heddles I6 donot operate, but the I heddles I! operate on the pleating warp threadsI8 1 What is claimed is:

1. A pleated or tucked fabric in which the pleats or tucks have beenwoven integrally in the fabric, said pleat or tuck being so woven as toassure perfect closing and shifting, and the filling threads of theground on either side of said pleat or tuck being held in a doublebinding in which the warp threads cross outside of the two end fillingthreads and in which'there is no crossing of warp threads betweensaidfilling threads, whereby said filling threads will be drawn togetherupon longitudinal stress of the fabric.

2. A pleated or tucked fabric in which the pleats have been integrallywoven into the fabric, two warps being utilized, both being woven in thefabric between the pleats and only one beingwoven into the pleatedportions of the fabric, the base of said pleat being provided with threeGros deTours bindings, one of said'bindings receiving the last threadsof the ground on either side of said pleat or tuck, and the other two ofsaid, bindings respectively receiving the lowermost filling thread ofthe pleat or tuck and the last filling thread of the ground, saidbindings each enclosing two filler threads in such a manner that thewarp threads .cross outside of said filler threads and so that saidfiller threads are not separated by crossing warp threads, whereby saidfilling threads will be drawn together upon longitudinal stress of thefabric;

3. A pleated or tucked fabric in which the pleats or tucks are wovenintegrally into the fab ric during formation, said fabric including twowarps, both of which are woven into the ground or base between thepleats, one of which is woven into the pleat and the other of whichextends between the edges of the pleat to reinforce the same, the lastfilling threads of the ground on either side of said pleat or tuck beingcontained in a single double binding extending across the base of thepleat or tuck, the warp threads being only crossed outside of said lastground filling threads and there being no crossing warp threads betweensaid filling threads, whereby said filling threads will be drawntogether upon longitudinal stress of the fabric.

4. A process of forming integrally pleated or tucked fabrics whichcomprises providing two warps, one for the pleated and ground effect andan additional warp solely for the ground effect, weaving thefirst-mentioned Warp to form the pleat and then weaving the second warptogether with the first-mentioned warp to form the ground, the lastfilling threads of the ground on either side of said pleat or tuck beingcontained in a

